168 Chemicals Before Breakfast: What's Really In Your Morning Routine?
168.
That's the number of unique chemical ingredients the average woman applies to her skin, hair, and body before she leaves the house in the morning. Not over a week. Not over a month. Every single day.
She wakes up, washes her face, shampoos her hair, conditions it, applies body wash, moisturiser, deodorant, foundation, concealer, mascara, lip balm — and by the time she walks out the door, she has absorbed the equivalent of a small chemistry experiment through her skin.
And here's the part that should make you stop: most of those chemicals have never been tested for long-term safety.
Your Skin Is Not a Barrier. It's a Gateway.
We've been taught to think of skin as a protective shield — something that keeps the outside world out. And it does, to a degree. But it also absorbs. Significantly.
Research suggests that skin absorbs up to 60% of what you apply to it, and unlike food that passes through your digestive system (which filters and processes many harmful substances), what enters through your skin goes directly into your bloodstream. No filtering. No processing. Straight in.
This is why nicotine patches work. Why hormone therapy can be delivered through the skin. Your skin is extraordinarily efficient at absorption — and the cosmetics industry has been quietly relying on that fact for decades.
Go and Read Your Label Right Now
Before we go any further — go and pick up one of the products you use every day. Your shampoo. Your body wash. Your moisturiser. Read the ingredient list.
Here's what a typical mass-market shampoo ingredient list looks like. The bolded ingredients are the chemicals of concern:
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Dimethicone, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Chloride, Fragrance/Parfum, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Polyquaternium-10, Tetrasodium EDTA, Cocamide MEA, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sodium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin, BHT
Count the bolded ones. Now go and compare that to the product in your bathroom. How many match?
Below, we break down what the most common offenders actually are — and what they do inside your body.
The Chemicals You Need to Know About
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) — The Strippers
SLS and SLES are industrial degreasers — the same compounds used to clean garage floors — repurposed as foaming agents in commercial shampoos, body washes, and cleansers. They create that satisfying, thick lather we've been conditioned to associate with "clean."
But here's something the industry doesn't want you to think about: nature doesn't foam. Real, natural cleansing doesn't produce mountains of bubbles. That foam is a chemical reaction — engineered to make you feel like something powerful is happening. When you find yourself wanting a product that lathers more, you're essentially asking for more chemicals.
At JUSTBLiSS, we use Cocamidopropyl Betaine — derived from coconut oil — as our gentle foaming agent. It's the same mild surfactant used in baby products. It cleanses effectively, produces a soft, gentle lather, and does not strip your skin. It's what foam is supposed to feel like.
SLS and SLES, by contrast, strip your skin's natural oils, disrupt your microbiome, and compromise your moisture barrier. And here's the vicious cycle nobody tells you about: the retail soap or body wash strips your skin dry — so you reach for a lotion to fix it. But most commercial lotions are primarily water (aqua is almost always the first ingredient), bulked out with PEGs, synthetic fragrance, and parabens. They sit on the surface, evaporate, and leave your skin needing more. You're not solving the problem. You're feeding it — and adding another layer of chemicals in the process.
Because SLS and SLES damage the skin barrier, they also make your skin more permeable to every other chemical in the product. They literally open the door.
Important note: SLS and SLES are NOT the same as SLSa (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate). SLSa is a much milder, coconut-derived surfactant that produces a gentle lather without stripping the skin. At JUSTBLiSS, where we use a foaming agent, we use SLSa — not SLS or SLES.
Dimethicone — The Plastic Coating
Dimethicone is a silicone polymer — essentially a form of liquid plastic. It coats hair and skin with a film that creates the illusion of smoothness and shine, but it doesn't nourish anything. It builds up over time, can clog pores, and is not biodegradable. It's bad for your skin and bad for the planet — and it's in almost every commercial shampoo and conditioner.
Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) — The Great Illusion
Vaseline is one of the most trusted household names in skincare — and one of the most misunderstood. Petroleum jelly is a byproduct of the oil refining industry. It is derived from crude oil.
Here's the critical thing to understand: Vaseline does not moisturise your skin. It cannot. It has no nutritional value for skin whatsoever. What it does is create an occlusive seal — a plastic-like barrier on the surface of your skin that traps whatever moisture is already there. If your skin is dry when you apply it, it seals in the dryness. It also seals in bacteria, blocks pores, and prevents your skin from breathing and releasing toxins naturally.
Petroleum jelly can be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) — compounds classified as possible human carcinogens. Cosmetic-grade petroleum jelly is refined, but the degree of refinement varies, and the EU requires full refinement to be demonstrated before use in cosmetics.
And yet it's applied to babies' skin, used as a lip balm (and ingested), and recommended for dry skin, cracked heels, and eczema — daily, by millions of people.
Your skin deserves actual nourishment — not a crude oil seal.
Parabens — The Preservatives Hiding Everywhere
Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) extend shelf life in moisturisers, shampoos, and makeup. They're also xenoestrogens — chemicals that mimic oestrogen in the body. Studies have found parabens in breast tumour tissue. They've been linked to hormonal disruption, early puberty in girls, and reduced sperm count in men. The EU has restricted several parabens. South Africa has not.
Synthetic Fragrance — The Industry's Biggest Secret
When you see "fragrance" or "parfum" on an ingredient list, you're looking at a legal loophole. A single fragrance ingredient can contain up to 3,000 individual chemicals — none of which need to be disclosed, because fragrance formulas are protected as trade secrets.
Hidden within that one word are often phthalates — hormone-disrupting plasticisers linked to early puberty, PCOS, thyroid disruption, and reduced fertility. They cross the placental barrier, exposing unborn babies too.
At JUSTBLiSS, where we use fragrance, we source exclusively phthalate-free fragrances. We won't compromise on this.
Formaldehyde Releasers — A Carcinogen in Your Shampoo
First, let's explain what a carcinogen actually is — because it's a word that gets used a lot and understood very little.
A carcinogen is any substance capable of causing cancer in living tissue. It does this by damaging DNA or disrupting normal cell function, which triggers uncontrolled cell growth — and that is what cancer is. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies carcinogens on a risk scale. Group 1 means the substance definitely causes cancer in humans. Not probably. Not possibly. Definitely.
Formaldehyde is a Group 1 carcinogen. It is the same substance used to preserve dead bodies in mortuaries.
Now here's what should make you put down your shampoo bottle: formaldehyde is not always listed directly on cosmetic labels. Instead, it is released slowly — over time, as the product sits on your shelf and as you use it — by a family of common preservatives known as formaldehyde releasers. Look for these names on your labels:
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Imidazolidinyl Urea
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Quaternium-15
- Bronopol (2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol)
These ingredients are found in shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and — disturbingly — baby products. Every time you wash your hair or your child's hair, a known Group 1 carcinogen is being released and absorbed through your scalp.
The cosmetics industry argues the amounts are too small to cause harm. But this is happening every day, for years, in combination with dozens of other chemicals — none of which have been tested together. The cumulative, long-term picture is entirely unknown. We call it unnecessary. Safe, effective preservatives exist. We use them.
PEGs — The Penetration Enhancers
Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are thickeners and moisture carriers that also act as penetration enhancers — increasing skin permeability and helping other ingredients (including harmful ones) absorb more deeply. They're often contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane during manufacturing — both probable human carcinogens.
Aluminium — And Why Sweating Matters
Conventional antiperspirants work by blocking your sweat ducts with aluminium salts. And yes — they work. You stop sweating. But here's what that actually means.
Sweating is one of your body's primary detoxification mechanisms. When you block sweat, you're not just stopping wetness — you're preventing your body from releasing toxins through the skin. Those toxins don't disappear. They stay inside you.
Over time, this toxic accumulation — combined with daily aluminium absorption through thin, often freshly shaved underarm skin that sits directly adjacent to lymph nodes and breast tissue — creates conditions that researchers are increasingly linking to lymphatic stress and disease. Aluminium has been found in breast tissue samples and has demonstrated oestrogenic and genotoxic properties. The lymphatic system, which runs directly through the underarm area, is responsible for filtering waste and supporting immune function. Disrupting it daily is not something to take lightly.
Lymphatic cancer — lymphoma — is one of the fastest-growing cancer categories globally. The connection to antiperspirant use is still being studied, but the precautionary principle is clear: blocking your body's natural detox pathways every single day is not a risk worth taking.
Your body is designed to sweat. Let it.
The Cumulative Effect — What Nobody Talks About
Safety testing for cosmetic ingredients — where it exists at all — is done on individual ingredients in isolation. No one tests what happens when 168 chemicals interact with each other inside your body, day after day, year after year.
This is called the cocktail effect. It is almost entirely unstudied. We know chemicals can amplify each other's effects. We know endocrine disruptors are harmful at extremely low doses. We know bioaccumulation is real — these chemicals build up in fat tissue over time.
What we don't know is the full picture. And that, in itself, is the problem.
The Regulatory Gap — And What It Means for South Africans
The European Union has banned or restricted over 1,300 chemicals from cosmetics. The United States has banned 11. These numbers alone tell you everything about how seriously different governments take consumer protection in this industry.
And South Africa? Our cosmetics are regulated under the Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act (Act 54 of 1972) — legislation that is over 50 years old, written long before modern cosmetic chemistry existed in its current form.
Here is what that means in practice:
- No pre-market approval is required. A cosmetic company in South Africa can formulate a product, put it on shelves, and start selling it — without ever having to prove it is safe.
- No mandatory adverse event reporting. If a product harms someone, there is no legal obligation for the company to report it.
- Enforcement is reactive, not proactive. Regulators can only act after harm has already been proven — which takes years and often never happens at all.
- Ingredient restrictions lag behind global standards. Many chemicals banned or restricted in Europe remain perfectly legal here.
South African consumers are among the least protected cosmetics consumers in the world. The products on our shelves have not been independently verified as safe. You are trusting the manufacturer. And the manufacturer's primary obligation is to their shareholders, not to your health.
You are, in effect, a participant in an uncontrolled, long-term experiment. And you never signed a consent form.
What You Can Actually Do
This is not about perfection or throwing everything out overnight. It's about making informed, progressive choices — replacing products one at a time with cleaner alternatives that work just as well, or better. Start with the products you use most frequently and leave on your skin longest.
Your Body Cleanser
Swap your SLS-laden body wash for a real soap made from pure vegetable oils. Our Artisan Hemp Oil Soap Bars are handcrafted with no synthetic detergents, no sulphates, no hidden fragrance chemicals. Our Hand & Body Wash and 3-in-1 Shampoo, Bath & Shower Gel are pure vegetable oil liquid soaps — nothing hidden, nothing harmful. And because they don't strip your skin, you won't need to pile on a chemical lotion afterwards to compensate.
Your Facial Cleanser
Your facial cleanser is one of the highest-risk products in your routine — applied to thin, sensitive facial skin, often used to remove makeup and mascara, and rinsed off quickly without much thought. Most commercial facial cleansers are loaded with SLS, synthetic fragrance, and preservatives. Our Citrus Bliss Facial Cleanser is plant-based, soft on skin, and effective enough to remove the day — without the chemical payload.
Your Body Moisturiser
Step away from the petroleum jelly and the water-based lotions. Vaseline seals in dryness and blocks your skin from breathing. Commercial lotions are mostly water and chemicals that evaporate and leave you reaching for more. Our Whipped Body Butter contains no water padding and no petroleum derivatives — just pure, concentrated plant-based nourishment that actually feeds your skin. A tiny amount melts in and stays there.
Your Facial Moisturiser
Replace chemical-laden facial creams with pure plant oils that your skin actually recognises. Our Miracle Facial Oil with Prickly Pear & Frankincense is a powerhouse for mature and normal skin. For pure prickly pear, our Prickly Pear Seed Oil is one of the most nutrient-dense facial oils in the world. For teens and oily or acne-prone skin, our Squalane Facial Oil is lightweight, non-comedogenic, and completely clean.
Your Shampoo
Conventional shampoos are among the most chemical-dense products in your routine. Our Eco-Friendly Shampoo Bar is plant-based, zero waste, and free from SLS, SLES, dimethicone, parabens, synthetic fragrance, and formaldehyde releasers.
Your Deodorant
Stop blocking your body's natural detox process. Our Aluminium-Free Natural Deodorant is plant-based and effective — it manages odour without blocking sweat, without aluminium, and without compromising your lymphatic health.
Your Lip Balm
Your lips are among the most absorbent areas of your face — and you ingest whatever you apply to them. Petroleum jelly lip balms are among the most commonly used products in the world — and among the least nourishing. Our All Natural Lip Balm is made from plant-based ingredients that actually nourish lip tissue — nothing derived from crude oil, nothing you wouldn't be comfortable with in trace amounts.
The Challenge
Go and pick up every personal care product you own. Read the ingredient list on each one. Compare what you find against the chemicals we've named in this article — SLS, SLES, dimethicone, petroleum jelly, parabens, "fragrance" or "parfum", PEGs, DMDM hydantoin, aluminium compounds, methylisothiazolinone.
Count how many products contain at least one of them.
And then ask yourself this: if a product has no ingredient list at all — no label, no disclosure, nothing — why would you put it on your skin? If a food product had no ingredient list, you wouldn't eat it. Your skin deserves the same standard. If a brand won't tell you what's in their product, that silence is your answer. Walk away.
Then ask yourself: is this what I want absorbing into my bloodstream, every day, for the rest of my life?
You don't need to change everything at once. But you do need to know what you're choosing.
168 chemicals a day. Every day. For decades.
You deserve to know what they are — and you deserve better.

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